Shaanxi Beef Burger (Rou Jia Mo)

Ingredient tip: the gancao (licorice root) gives the braise a lightly sweet aftertaste; it is optional and can be replaced with 8.3g / 2 tsps sugar or two drops of monk fruit extract.

Braise the beef: 1. Add the beef to a big pot with 2 liters or enough water to cover; partially lid it and boil over high heat. 2. Once boiling, remove the beef, discard the blanching water and set the beef aside. 3. In a separate pot, stir the oil and sugar over low heat until caramelized, about 3 minutes. 4. When the amber caramel bubbles, pour in 4 cups of water (use a lid to shield yourself from splashes). 5. Add the blanched beef, soy sauce and salt to the caramel and bring to a simmer over high heat. 6. Meanwhile, add the cinnamon stick, cloves, fennel seed, black peppercorns, licorice root, Sichuan peppercorns, garlic, ginger and scallion stalks to a spice bag. 7. Add the spice bag to the pot, switch to low and simmer 2 hours until tender.

Make the white bun (bai ji mo / 白吉馍): 1. In a stand-mixer bowl thoroughly stir the yeast with the lukewarm water and wait 5 minutes. 2. Meanwhile wrap the baking soda in foil and heat it in a cast-iron skillet over medium heat a few minutes (this turns sodium bicarbonate into sodium carbonate/soda ash, an alkaline salt that improves texture and Maillard reactions). 3. Add the sodium carbonate to the yeast water and stir; add the flour and mix with a spatula until absorbed. 4. Knead with the hook on low 8 minutes (or 8-10 minutes by hand) until smooth and elastic. 5. Cover and proof 20 minutes at room temperature (bai ji mo is half-leavened, so no full rise). 6. Divide into 6 pieces and keep covered. 7. Roll a piece into a long strip, flatten into a ribbon with a rolling pin, then roll the ribbon into a cylinder tucking the end under; repeat with the rest. 8. Flatten a cylinder and roll into a thick round patty about 3.5 inches across; repeat. 9. Preheat a heavy frying pan over low heat 1 minute, rub with a little oil, and toast the patties 2-3 minutes per side until slightly golden (lid on for the first side, off when flipped to keep it crispy); cook 2-3 at a time. 10. Toast the rest the same way.

Assemble the rou jia mo burger: 1. Chop the braised beef finely on a board, adding braising liquid in batches until no longer absorbed (about 5-6 Tbsps) — the key to a juicy rou jia mo. 2. Cut a white bun but stop in the middle, then wiggle the knife tip to make a pocket. 3. Stuff the chopped beef into the bread and add 1 Tbsp braising brine so the bread soaks it up and softens. 4. Sprinkle diced scallions, cilantro or chili sauce as you like. 5. Enjoy with orange soda.